Beeswax vs. emulsifying wax in hand lotions: how to choose

There is a lot of talk about using beeswax in cosmetics because it is a natural ingredient, but there are reasons why it should not be used in hand or face lotions. First of all, it is not an emulsifier. What does that mean? It means that it will not chemically mix with oils and water. If you have a lotion with water it will separate and you will have a drop of oil and wax and water in there. I know, I’ve done it. Even when you use just beeswax and oils, which blend well, the end result is a waxy or greasy feel, there’s nothing to soften the consistency, which is what water does with an emulsifying wax.

People claim that you can use beeswax as an emulsifier, but in reality that is only partially true. You can use the beeswax, but then you need to add borax to the mixture, as beeswax will NOT mix with water without the chemical reaction that borax creates. So yes, beeswax is natural and has great qualities, which is why in my lip balms I only use pure white beeswax along with 100% pure organic oils and essential oils. Using it in a face cream or body lotion just doesn’t work without the borax and I personally don’t want to get borax on my skin or face. It is not necessary in the lip balm to create a smooth feel because the product is different from a lotion. In the case of lip balm, you want the oils to absorb quickly into the lips, but on the skin or face, the combination is waxy and greasy.

According to Mountain Rose Herbs, emulsifying wax is “a vegetable-based wax, made from natural fats and esters, further processed into a convenient ‘pill flake form.’ This excellent medium is used to create a bond between water and the oil for products that require their bonding. It makes a fluid cream and lotion without the separation, and complements the final texture of the finished products.”

So whether you’re making or just buying natural hand lotions or face creams, avoid those that are made strictly with oils and beeswax or you’ll end up with a greasy, waxy lotion. I know that is not what I want to put on my skin or my face. And don’t be discouraged to see that it contains an emulsifying wax, but make sure it’s plant-based and not petroleum-based if you want to stay as natural as possible with your cosmetics.

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